Today, July 24, is National Tequila Day. Sounds fun, right? Back in the
day, I drank my share of tequila, with salt and lemon. As a nod to my younger days, I thought I’d
research the history of tequila.
Tequila is the name for a distilled beverage made from the blue agave
plant, primarily in the area surrounding the city of Tequila, 40 miles
northwest of Guadalajara. The red volcanic soil in the surrounding region is
particularly well-suited to the growing of the blue agave plant. (Wikipedia)
Mezcal
wine, tequila’s grandparent, was first produced only a few decades after the
Spaniards came to the New World in 1521. Agave played a much larger role than the source
of an alcoholic drink. Its leaves were used for a hemp-like fiber to make mats,
clothing, rope and paper. It was also the source of the nutrient and
vitamin-rich brew, pulque. (Source: Los Cabos Magazine)
The
distillation of pulque into something stronger may have originated by the
Conquistadors as early as the 1520s. You’re all familiar with Cuervo Tequila.
Jose Antonio Cuervo was the first licensed manufacturer of tequila. He received
the rights to cultivate a parcel of land from the King of Spain in 1758. Today,
Cuervo is the largest manufacturer of tequila in the world. (Source: Los Cabos
Magazine)
Mexican laws
state that tequila can only be produced in the state of Jalisco and limited municipalities in the states of Guanajuato, Michoacán, Nayarit, and Tamaulipas. Planting, tending, and harvesting the
agave plant remains a manual effort, largely unchanged by modern farm machinery
and relying on centuries-old know-how.
The men who
harvest it, the jimadores [ximaˈðoɾes], have intimate knowledge of how the plants should be
cultivated, passed down from generation to generation. (Wikipedia)
"Tequila worm"
misconception
A young agave plant
THE WORM
Another interesting error is an urban legend related to a worm. The worm-in-the-bottle myth is old and tired. The truth has been broadcast and expounded for years by the cognoscenti of tequila, in newspapers, magazines and on the internet. Yes, it’s true, some American-bottled brands put one in their bottle to impress the gringos and boost sales, but it was a marketing ploy developed in the 1940s, not a Mexican tradition.
Sometimes however, there is a worm, properly a butterfly caterpillar, in some types of mezcal. You may also get a small bag of worm salt and chile powder tied to a mezcal bottle. There are two types of worms in mezcal: the red, gusano rojo—considered superior because it lives in the root and heart of the maguey—and the less-prized white or gold gusano de oro, which lives on the leaves. The red gusano turns pale in the mezcal, the gold turns ashen-gray. Both larvae are commonly eaten as food and are sold in Zapotec markets.
Yes, you’re supposed to eat the worm in mezcal. Don’t worry: it’s quite well pickled and free of pesticides (they’re often raised just for use in mezcal, cooked and pickled in alcohol for a year). But dispel any idea it has any magical or psychotropic properties, that it’s an aphrodisiac or the key to an "unseen world." It’s merely protein and alcohol—but it’s very rich in imagery. Note: Yuck.
Another interesting error is an urban legend related to a worm. The worm-in-the-bottle myth is old and tired. The truth has been broadcast and expounded for years by the cognoscenti of tequila, in newspapers, magazines and on the internet. Yes, it’s true, some American-bottled brands put one in their bottle to impress the gringos and boost sales, but it was a marketing ploy developed in the 1940s, not a Mexican tradition.
Sometimes however, there is a worm, properly a butterfly caterpillar, in some types of mezcal. You may also get a small bag of worm salt and chile powder tied to a mezcal bottle. There are two types of worms in mezcal: the red, gusano rojo—considered superior because it lives in the root and heart of the maguey—and the less-prized white or gold gusano de oro, which lives on the leaves. The red gusano turns pale in the mezcal, the gold turns ashen-gray. Both larvae are commonly eaten as food and are sold in Zapotec markets.
Yes, you’re supposed to eat the worm in mezcal. Don’t worry: it’s quite well pickled and free of pesticides (they’re often raised just for use in mezcal, cooked and pickled in alcohol for a year). But dispel any idea it has any magical or psychotropic properties, that it’s an aphrodisiac or the key to an "unseen world." It’s merely protein and alcohol—but it’s very rich in imagery. Note: Yuck.
In Mexico,
the most traditional way to drink tequila is neat, without lime and salt.
Outside Mexico, a single shot of
tequila is often served with salt and a slice of lime. This is called tequila cruda and is sometimes referred to as
"training wheels", "lick-sip-suck", or
"lick-shoot-suck" (referring to the way in which the combination of
ingredients is imbibed). The drinkers moisten the back of their hands below the
index finger (usually by licking) and pour on the salt. Then the salt is licked
off the hand, the tequila is drunk, and the fruit slice is quickly bitten.
Groups of drinkers often do this simultaneously. (Wikipedia)
Note: I always thought you
used lemon. That’s what we did. We used to drink it this way in groups in a
bar, mostly the summer of 1971, at the Jersey Shore.
Now that you know all the
important facts about tequila, go out and celebrate National Tequila Day.
While we’re on the subject of
celebrating, I’m celebrating the release of Letterbox
Love Stories, Volume 1. This anthology of romances from nine authors all
over the Globe has stories that span the centuries, something for every reading
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Get your copy today!
What if a life-changing letter arrived in
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I loved your blog. We often have a misunderstanding of how a tradition started. But once the practice is out there and popular, it's fair game for changing. Is there any international restriction on who can use the name "tequila"? Can we make tequila in the US (for example) and still call it tequila?
ReplyDeleteI've not been a "to-kill-ya" girl...It has such a kick for me. What a fun history lesson though. I can't imagine some people are raising worms only to have them pickled in alcohol and put in tequila. What a fun job!
ReplyDeleteEnjoy your box set! Sounds like a wonderful group of stories!
Ann, I'm not sure of the answer to your question. I found this on Wikipedia:Mexican laws state that tequila can only be produced in the state of Jalisco and limited municipalities in the states of Guanajuato, Michoacán, Nayarit, and Tamaulipas.[3] Tequila is recognized as a Mexican designation of origin product in more than 40 countries.[4] It is protected through NAFTA in Canada and the United States,[5] through bilateral agreements with individual countries such as Japan and Israel,[5] and has been a protected designation of origin product in the constituent countries of the European Union since 1997.[5]
ReplyDeleteThanks, Melissa. The part about the worms is particularly yucky.
ReplyDeleteWhat a fun post. Tequila was a favorite of mine during the seventies and we did the whole lemon, salt suck routine but I don't think I ever saw a worm in the bottle. If I had, I would have started drinking something else! The idea behind your letterbox love stories is fabulous and I can't wait to read them. Good luck!
ReplyDeleteWhat a fun and informative blog post, Cara. I've often wondered about tequila... although I live in Texas I've rarely had any.
ReplyDeleteThe exclusivity situation sounds similar to the rules attached to using the word "champagne" on sparkling wines from anywhere but the Champagne region of France (and using their methods)-- it is illegal. Apparently some alcohol producers in other places, including in the USA, are cracking down with exclusivity of name now, too.
As for the worms... no thanks! :)
Love knowing more about tequila...It used to be my favorite drink, but now seems too strong to me. I'm a vodka girl now that I'm getting older, but we used to cross the border to get the good tequila. Now even border-crossing is not that much fun.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Paris. I loved having shots of tequila at the bars in the 70's. Such fun. I'm with you about seeing a worm in the bottle. I hope you enjoy our stories.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Gemma. The restrictions on tequila reminded me of the ones on champagne too.
Thanks, Jean. I'd like to try a few shots of tequila for old times' sake. My preferred drink back in the day was gin and tonic. Now, I stick mostly to wine. I'll bet you got some good tequila when you crossed the border. Don't think I'd want to cross now.
Hi, Cara! I like tequila in margaritas, but that's about it. I did see the agave fields in Mexico and it was interesting how they prepare the plant.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Vicki. I like margaritas sometimes, but I find them too sweet. I do like straight shots of tequila. I'd love to see the agave fields.
ReplyDelete